Blog 2020


Posted On: September 23, 2020
Posted On: September 16, 2020
Posted On: September 09, 2020
Posted On: September 02, 2020
Posted On: August 26, 2020


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Posted On: September 23, 2020

Problem: Fishblood Stains On Nonskid

While evidence of catches on your deck means you had a great day on the water, it's just plain yucky to look at.


The best method is to wash down any affected surfaces before the blood has a chance to dry. Should you miss a spot, sprinkle some Bar Keepers Friend on clean, wet nonskid, scrub, and rinse. Alternatively, try hydrogen peroxide or OxiClean (or generic equivalent) for really tough dried-on stains.


Thwart future stains with a coat of Woody Wax, which is safe to use on decks.

Problem: Hard water stains

Those icky white spots that appear on your hull, glass, or engine cowlings from mineral deposits mar your freshly cleaned finish.


Spray a mixture of equal parts vinegar and water, let sit for 5 minutes, then wipe off. Or keep a box of dryer sheets onboard. Moisten one with water, gently rub over the spots, then rinse for a sparkling shine.


Immediately after washing in a shady area, spritz the surface with a 4:1 water/vinegar mix. Use a wrung-out chamois to remove water droplets before they dry. Then apply a coat or two of wax, like Woody Wax, to help keep water spots at bay. For very hard water, consider adding a dockside or inline water filter to remove the minerals.



Posted On: September 16, 2020

Buying Quality Fasteners

For marine applications, the fastener material of choice, excluding aluminum rivets, will nearly always be stainless steel. Bronze is equally good but only for fastening bronze hardware. Avoid entirely typical hardware store offerings of brass and plated steel.

Where do you get high-quality marine fasteners? Your local boat-supply store should carry a good selection. Many hardware stores also stock stainless fasteners. However, not all stainless steel is created equal. Try to get a look at the box the specific fasteners came in. Retail fasteners labeled "18-8" are nearly always type 304. You will be better off, particularly if your boating waters are salt, using the more corrosion-resistant type 316

When Choosing A Metal Fastener, The First Question Is What Type. Here Are Some Options:

  • Bolts require nuts and access to both sides of the fastener hole.
  • Machine screws are identical to bolts but thread into a tapped hole. Sheet-metal and wood screws are self-tapping, cutting threads into the smooth surface of a drilled hole.
  • Rivets have no threads. They come with a factory head on one end, with the other end deformed at installation to create a second "head." The rivets contemporary boat owners are likely to use will be blind rivets, commonly called pop rivets, which can be installed even if you only have access to one side of the fastener hole.


Posted On: September 09, 2020

So you have decided to get a boat.

Getting an inspection can save you countless problems down the line.

Behind most successful used-boat transactions, there’s a Purchase Agreement and Bill of Sale that clearly spell out how the boat was bought or sold. While not perfect, this goes a long way to alleviate any misunderstandings.

“A Purchase Agreement is necessary if you intend to buy a boat, but require that certain things must be done before you will accept the boat, such as a satisfactory marine survey, specific repairs, and the ability to finance or insure the boat,” said BoatUS Consumer Protection Director Charles Fort. “It also describes both parties’ obligations. Once a buyer accepts the boat, the bill of sale is used as proof of purchase. You can download and print both forms 24-hours a day.”

Fort also added that while the two forms were designed to meet the needs of most buyers and sellers, they may want to seek legal advice if there are any questions about whether the forms are appropriate for their situation.

The Consumer Protection Bureau offers a dispute mediation service, the only national boating complaint database, and provides consumer-oriented information to help boaters make smart buying decisions.



Posted On: September 02, 2020

Presentation Pays

Deciding where to invest in fixing up your boat for sale comes down to two questions that every boat owner should ask themselves: What will it cost to make the repair or upgrade? What will it cost if I don't?

Fortunately, there are a few easy and inexpensive things you can do, which will always improve the marketability and speed up a sale.

Here's what the pros had to say:

Cleaned upholstery

You don't necessarily need to spend a lot of money to ready a boat for sale. Simply decluttering can make a big impact.

  1. "De clutter by removing anything that's not intended to be sold,"  "You want people to be able to open lockers and cupboards." He suggested removing personal effects that might make it harder for the buyer to imagine themselves in your boat. "Take the junk off, but keep Coast Guard-required gear, boat hooks, lines, fenders, pots and pans." Spare sails may be included in the price but don't need to be on the boat for viewing.

2. "Cleaning and waxing is the best money you can spend including all compartments, lazarettes, bilges, storage areas, and awnings.                                                                                                                                                                         Remove stains from furniture covers and headliners. Tidy up dock lines, sheets, and halyards. In the interior, make sure the heads are spotless and odorless and ensure the bilges are dry, clean, and odor-free." Consider hiring a professional cleaner.

3. "I've found that a lot of potential buyers walk right off a boat if it smells                                                                            Not necessarily just holding-tank smell, but musty smell, moldy smell, diesel smell. If a boat smells like anything, that should be dealt with. In some cases, it's the sanitation lines, and that can be a pretty complex and involved problem, but it's worth addressing if possible.

4. "Keep the engine room clean and tidy,"                                                                                                                                   Tidying wiring and replacing old hoses signal to the buyer that the boat is well cared for. Ensure basic maintenance is up to date including replacing oil, changing filters, and topping off all fluids.

5. "Repair anything you already know is broken or defective, including all electronics, lights, and accessories."               I also recommends checking all equipment on your inventory list and repairing any inoperative equipment or removing it from the list.

6. Make the boat accessible.                                                                                                                                                                  "If it's tarped in your backyard, that's not very easy or practical for the buyer , "It should be in the water, near the water, or easy to launch for an inspection or survey." If your boat is out of the water, keeping it "cleaned and covered, and add new zincs so it looks like it's ready to splash."

7. Take good photos that are bright, clear, and high-resolution,           

 Put 20 to 30 photos in the listing and then offer additional photos (say, 50 to 70 in a Dropbox file) to people who are serious. If you're not good at taking well-lit photos, find someone who can help, or consider hiring a pro."

8. Compile digital copies of service history, inventory list, photos, and survey.                                                                         "If you do the work on your boat, keep records of everything you do or if you've contracted a boatyard, have records of your invoices." Digital records are best. "We're working with buyers from all over the country, and the more info we can share with them the better," he says. He suggested compiling a detailed inventory, service history, a recent survey showing the boat in good condition, and additional photos — especially important for people who'll incur travel expenses to view the boat.

9. Like with homes, paint and varnish go a long way. Wills is in favor of bright-work touch-ups,                                           "If it looks ugly, sand the peeling varnish off and either paint or re varnish it."

10. Sometimes partial improvements can be effective, too. "I'd replace stained carpet but wouldn't reupholster everything on the boat,  Similarly, replacing deteriorated is in glass might deliver a better value-to-cost ratio than replacing an entire dodger or awning that still has life in it.

11. If you have the skills, you may want to embark on small fiberglass repairs.                                                             Anything that you can do yourself, do it, because that goes directly to marketing and sale-ability.



Posted On: August 26, 2020

10 Tips for Boating at Night

  1. Slow down, visibility is reduced at night.
  2. Share the lookout duties.
  3. Tap into your preparations list.
  4. Preserve your night vision.
  5. Don't use headlights or spotlights.
  6. Look for the red and green.
  7. Listen, listen, listen.
  8. Trust your navigation instruments.
  9. Bring along a towel—for many uses.
  10. Dock with extra caution.

1. Slow down

Visibility is reduced at night. Distances are harder to judge, obstacles are difficult to see, and moisture and temperature changes create distortion. Boats can come out of nowhere and debris and crab pots are nearly invisible on inky black water. Unless there’s a full moon, open water and no traffic, don’t run on plane.

2. Share the lookout duties

The driver has much to do including keeping an eye on gages, checking the chartplotter and actually driving. If you have someone along, keep that second pair of eyes strictly on the horizon with a periodic 360-dgree scan to ensure no one is coming up from behind or at an angle.

3. Tap into your preparations list

Before ever setting out in the dark, you should have refreshed the batteries in your flashlights and headlamps, put binoculars close to the helm and located personal floatation devices PFD'S). You may consider wearing PFDs with an attached strobe light or glow stick in case someone goes overboard.

4. Preserve your night vision

Dim all the onboard lights including courtesy lights, instrument and chartplotter backlighting and cabin lights. Your night vision can take 20 minutes to adapt back to darkness after a flash of light. Use flashlights with a vision-preserving red filter and check the plotter only when needed because even when dimmed, it will impact your ability to see out of the boat.

5. Don’t use headlights or spotlights

You’re not in a car and the reflective water kills the benefits of bright forward lights. Use docking lights only when arriving at your destination like at a dock or another boat. That’s when spotlights help you see close-up detail like cleats and handholds.

6. Look for the red and green

Running and marker lights are red and green. Entering a harbor in North America, follow the rule: Red, Right, Returning which means keep the red lights to starboard to stay in a safe channel. Consider what a boat looks like under way on the water: 

  • Red and green lights are forward on either side of the bow and a white light is aft at the stern.
  • If you see both red and green, the boat is coming head on.
  • If you see white, the boat is ahead of you and/or moving away.
  • If in doubt and you see red, stop. That means a boat is crossing your bow and it has the right of way.

Before departing on your voyage, check to make sure your navigation lights are operable so you’re visible to others.

7. Listen

Turn off the stereo and listen. You may hear fog horns, bells or other boats approaching. Use your hearing, which may seem more acute in the dark when you can’t rely on your eyes.

8. Trust your navigation instruments

Your eyes can play tricks on you in the dark so if your chartplotter is trustworthy normally, don’t suddenly decide it must be wrong. If your chartplotter hasn’t been updated or you’re not all that familiar with its use, slow down and approach with caution until you figure out whether your eyes and ears or your electronics are right.

9. Bring along a towel

A nice beach towel has lots of uses at night. You can drape it over yourself to stay warm and dry, you can toss it over parts of your console to cut down on ambient onboard light, and you can use it wipe a fogged windshield.

10. Dock with extra caution

Again, distances are distorted at night so only approach a dock as fast as you’re willing to hit it. Ask crew not to jump onto a dock but rather step off calmly when the boat is close enough. Double-check everyone’s knots and hitches before leaving the boat unattended in a slip.




Posted On: August 19, 2020

All boat models are more or less unique, but some require special attention.

Step By Step On How to Drive a Boat

  1. If your boat is powered by gasoline and has an engine compartment, run the “blower” (an exhaust fan) as per manufacturer’s recommendations prior to starting the engine, to make sure there isn’t a build-up of fumes in the compartment. This is a good time to run through your pre departure checklist.
  2. Put the key into the ignition (some modern boats have push-buttons instead), and turn it to start the engine.
  3. If the boat has a “kill switch” (also known as an engine safety cut-off, which automatically turns the engine off if you leave the helm for any reason), clip the lanyard on a belt loop of life jacket ring.
  4. Make sure all your gear is aboard and all your passengers are prepared to disembark. 
  5. Remove all the lines securing the boat to the dock, pier or slip.
  6. Engage forward (or reverse if you need to back out of a slip) by pushing the throttle handle forward (or pulling it back) gently until you feel it shift into gear.
  7. When the boat begins moving, spin the wheel just as you would turn the steering wheel in a car to determine direction of travel.
  8. Advance the throttle as appropriate to reach the desired speed.
  9. Trim (adjust running attitude) the boat as appropriate for the conditions.
  10. When you want to slow down, gently pull the throttle back towards the neutral position.


Posted On: August 12, 2020

When A Squall Comes Calling

Fortunately, most afternoon thunderstorms last less than half an hour. But even a "routine" squall can turn threatening and scary when combined with mechanical failure. You might be able to make it to a protected anchorage before the squall arrives and then be on your way afterward with no drama. Or, you can employ several effective techniques to deal with oncoming threatening weather.

First, check your weather before going boating, even for a day. If you're heading out on a longer trip, especially on a boat you're not very familiar with, be extremely conservative weather-wise. If a front is predicted, or thunderstorms, assume there will be squalls parading around and wreaking havoc. Wait it out and take a lay day. If you do set out, have a backup plan for seeking shelter quickly along your route, vigilantly check the weather. Squall lines can often be seen on the horizon, giving you time to take evasive action. If everyone is wearing life jackets, that's one less thing to worry about when the weather pipes up. Once facing deteriorating weather, you've got three tried-and-true options, depending on how far offshore you are and what kind of boat you have.

First Option: Tuck And Hide

If it's clear you can make landfall before heavy weather hits, do it. Don't wait to see if things get better. They rarely do, especially if gear starts to break. Find a harbor of refuge, cove, marina, or at least a protective shoreline with good holding for anchoring. The best choice is one that limits the fetch of storm-driven waves and blocks the worst of the wind. Put out enough line to create a scope of at least 3:1, make sure your anchor has dug in, then let out additional line to create scope of at least 7:1 — more if you're on a rode that's mostly rope and have swinging room. Secure the wheel or tiller in the center of the boat to increase stability; don't let it spin around. If you hear thunder or see lightning, go below if possible and avoid touching metal. Put on your shoes, stay low but never lie down, unplug electronics, if possible. Lower antennas. Stay out of the water. Touching two metals at the same time completes the circuit, one way people are killed by lightning.

If there's no lightning but strong winds, and your engine is in good working order, the most experienced person can stay at the helm and motor forward into the wind just enough to take the pressure off the anchor; this helps you avoid dragging, until the squall passes. In a driving rain, the helmsman may want to don swim goggles to take the sting out and wear rubber gloves when touching the wheel. Remember, lightning is still a danger for at least half an hour after a squall passes.

Second Option: Hold Station

If anchoring isn't possible, motoring slowly into the wind and waves permits most boats (power and sail) to make a bit of headway, maintain control, and take waves over the bow, minimizing the chance of swamping. The size and design of a boat, the propulsion power available, the experience level of the crew, and the severity of the squall all have their part to play in how a squall is best handled. Powerboats with open bows, such as bowriders and center-consoles, are vulnerable to swamping, so take the waves at a 20- to 30-degree angle; make sure to keep the boat moving fast enough so that the bow lifts over the waves, but not so fast that it buries on the other side. To maintain control, you may need to throttle up on the wave face, then throttle back as the wave passes under you. In this way, you can jog slowly to windward, making minimal headway, until the squall has passed.

Many sailboat mainsails have only two reef points and, in many cases, even pulling down to the second reef still may prove too much sail in a strong squall. In this case, it may be best to take all the sail down and motor slowly to windward. If you're confident in the boat, then leaving a patch of sail up on a larger, well-ballasted sailboat and motorsailing at a 20- to 30-degree angle to the wind can steady the boat and minimize the amount of water coming aboard. In smaller, lighter sailboats, it's often best to drop all sail before the squall hits and motor slowly to windward; if the boat gets even a little sideways to the wind, you risk loss of control or even capsize.

Third Option: Heave To

Sailboats can heave to, which will all but stop the boat in a controlled way, an invaluable technique — like engaging a handbrake on a car — that can be used in a short squall so long as you have room around you. Reef and sheet in the mainsail and partially furl the headsail. Then tack the boat without releasing the jib sheet (which backwinds the jib), and secure the helm; this holds the boat with the bow 20 or 30 degrees off the wind. With the sails and rudder balanced against one another, the boat will steady itself and drift slowly downwind, usually at no more than 1 knot. Heaving to takes practice, and its effectiveness and the precise tactics depend upon your boat's design. To make sure you're ready to employ it when you need it, head out on a day with strong but steady winds and practice. Your maneuverability will be limited when hove to, so don't try it in a ship channel in poor visibility. 

BASED ON ARTICLE BY  By Beth A. Leonard, Bernadette Bernon and Michael Vatalaro FOR BOATUS



Posted On: August 05, 2020


Here's a day-by-day guide to getting your boat ready once a storm has been forecast for your region.

Keep in mind that every tropical storm moves at its own speed, so treat this a rough guideline.

The goal is to finish your boat preparations well before the first big winds start to blow.

Day 0: Advance Preparations

The first round of storm preparations is best addressed at the beginning of boating season — well before any particular storm starts brewing.

  • Review your boat's insurance policy. What actions does it require of you? If you live in an area that may be prone to hurricane activity, many policies may carry a "Named Storm Deductible" that is higher than your normal Deductible.  Some  policies allow you to lower your named storm deductible by properly preparing the boat by moving it to land, lashing it down with in-ground anchors and removing all canvas and/or sails from the exterior.

Day 1: Storm's First Reports

Only a few storms are destructive in any one region; many more are supremely inconvenient. When a forecast shows a wide range of possible landfalls, it's human nature to want to assume the storm will miss you. But avoid taking that bait. The first day that your boat's location is included in the storm's possible track — that's the day to start getting ready.

  • Rearrange your schedule for the next few days to allow for storm prep
  • Gather chafe gear for docklines, mooring pendants, or anchor rode. Duct tape and rags are not sufficient. Commercial products such as Chafe-Pro have been proven to work in extreme conditions
  • Gather any tools you'll need to remove gear or electronics from the boat
  • Marina Boats: check in with the marina manager; coordinate your plans. Make sure marina staff can reach you on short notice (cell phone, email)

Trailered Boats:

Confirm that the trailer and tow vehicle are ready to go.

Moored Boats:

Locate any extra pendants, chafe gear, shackles or any other gear you'll need to beef up your attachment to the mooring.

Anchored Boats:

Choose your hurricane hole. Gather all the equipment (extra anchors, chain, rode, chafe gear) you'll need to create a storm-anchor system.

Day 2: Storm Approaches

If a whole day has passed and your boat is still in the storm's possible track, it's time to act. Some marinas require you to execute your storm plan more than 72 hours before the predicted landfall. Check for bridge closures due to the storm. This is the time to think through a storm's four threats: wind, rain, waves, and surge. What can you do to mitigate each of those?

Prepare For Waves:

If your boat remains in a marina, keep in mind that sandbars and breakwaters may be covered by the surge, exposing your boat to the waves' full force. If waves are a possible factor, orient the bow facing them.

Prepare For Wind:

That means removing absolutely everything you can: biminis, cushions, chairs, tables, outriggers, dinghies, motors, sails. If your boat will be in a slip, position the bow toward the likeliest direction of storm winds — but give precedence to the direction of waves. Tie the boat as far from the dock as you can. Each dockline should be long enough to its own strongpoint to allow for surge.

Prepare For Rain:

Ensure that your scuppers and bilge are free of debris, sludge, and any obstructions. Remove electronics or other equipment that's sensitive to moisture. Tape over hatches and dorades to keep wind-driven rain out. Check that bilge pumps are working. Top off batteries that will run the pumps and turn of un-needed items that will drain those batteries. If you have a low-freeboard boat or one with inadequate drains, it will need to be hauled out or trailered to avoid sinking.

Prepare For Surge:

The spider web of extra long docklines recommended should allow for a rise and fall of water level that may be unprecedented for your area.

Day 3: Storm Imminent

Time is now getting tight. Secure any items that you might have missed; remove any valuable items from the boat that remain. Take photos of your storm preparation in case your insurance company needs them later.

Day 4: Storm Watch

A hurricane watch indicates that hurricane conditions may pose a threat within 36 hours. By this time, you should have done all you can to secure your boat. The focus now should be on getting yourself and your family somewhere safe.

Day 5: Storm Warning

A hurricane warning for your area indicates that sustained winds of 74 mph are expected within 24 hours. Hopefully, by now, you and your family are safely away from the coastline — and your boat is just about the last thing on your mind